By rail...
The Egyptian State Railway is government-owned and services the entire Nile Valley down to Aswan, the Red Sea cities of Suez and Port Said, the Delta and Northern Coast cities of Alexandria (two stops) and Mersa Matruh.
There are at least half a dozen through trains a day on major routes. Fares are inexpensive, but unless one is travelling with a tour, tickets must be purchased at the main railway stations (in Cairo at the Ramses Station at Midan Ramses).
There is one privately owned train operating in Egypt, the Wagon Lits sleeper with first, second and third class compartments. The train travels overnight from Cairo to Aswan and back again, leaving Cairo at around 7 in the evening and arriving in Aswan at 9 the following morning.
Bookings are one week in advance through a travel agent or from Compagnie Internationale des Wagons Lits Egypte, 9 Sh Menes, Heliopolis, Tel: 02 290 8802/4; 48 Sh Giza, Giza, Tel: 02 348 7354.
If you plan on travelling by train, it's worth paying for a first-class ticket, as standards aren't what you'd expect in European countries.
By bus...
Air-conditioned buses link most parts of Egypt to Cairo and Alexandria, but the journeys will be long and boring. Seats may be reserved up to two days in advance. There is also a fleet of cheaper non-air-conditioned buses, which are not recommended unless you've run out of money and are happy to spend several hours crammed in sweltering conditions.
Bus times may change without notice, but departures are frequent so it doesn't matter. The principal carrier to Aswan and Luxor from Cairo is the Upper Egyptian Bus Company (tel: 02 431 6723), 4 Yussef Abbas. Departures are from 45 al Azhar and the terminal at Midan Ahmed Helmi.
To Alexandria the main carriers are the West Delta Bus Company (tel: 02 765 582), Super Jet (tel: 02 772 663), and the Federal Arab Land Transport Company, which leave from behind the Hilton. Both Alexandria and Cairo have tram or metro systems that run through at least part of the city. Trains run every few minutes from early morning (5:30 am) to midnight and fares are inexpensive, usually under a pound to the farthest destination.
By car...
Driving a hire car in Egypt is possible and allows a great deal of freedom, but will not be for everyone, and don't even think about driving in Cairo or certain areas of Middle Egypt. Car rental agencies have offices at most major hotels.
Foreigners must have an International Driver's Licence and be at least 25 years of age to rent a car in Egypt. Some agencies offer 4x4s, with or without driver, for desert travel. You will need your passport, driver's licence, and a prepayment. Credit cards are accepted.
Remember that journeys will take a lot longer than you think and be hot - Cairo to Luxor is 415 miles, for example. Hitchhiking is not a common practice in Egypt and is not recommended, especially for women.
By boat...
You really have little option but to arrive in Egypt by air. Big cruise ships often call at Alexandria and Port Said, and you can take a two-night mini-cruise from Cyprus to Port Said which will include a day in Cairo, but you'll spend six hours on the coach. You will need to take the ferry, which runs twice a day, to get from Sharm el Sheikh to Hurghada. From the Red Sea resorts, there'll be a number of boat trips to diving and snorkelling sites.
By taxi...
Luxor, Aswan and Sharm el Sheikh (Naama Bay) are easily negotiated by foot, and it's a pleasure to do so. Or you'll find caleches (horse and carriage) with persistent drivers, good for sightseeing and short journeys, but not very comfortable for long distances. Note: Some tourists may be upset by the condition of some of the horses.
Elsewhere, don't even think about walking in Cairo. Local taxis are readily available, inexpensive, and you don't have to tip. Hail them on the street, or get your hotel to arrange one for you. But do agree the fare before embarking on your journey, and don't pay until the end of your journey. The same goes for caleches, or horse and carriage, rides - the driver will expect a tip.
Tip: If you plan to visit a number of sites and wish the taxi driver to wait for you, this can be done, but again, establish the cost first.
